Hi
I guess having a var++; line at the top of the page isn't what you want (this would increment each time the page was 'refreshed/loadeded?
The only other way I can think of is to point the link to a seperate script that increments your var and then relocates you to the original page.
Like this
Page_1
//some stuff
<a href ="page2.php">follow this</a>
page_2.php
<?
$counter++;
header("location: page_1.php");
?>
I've not tried it but barring any silly errors I think it would do what you need.
Best of luck
Nick