See my issue with Dreamweaver is this... I used to use Dreamweaver for some initial layout, cause I thought it saved time...
Then I got a good handle on HTML, and now I can handcode things faster than I can do them in Dreamweaver.
The big issue with Dreamweaver was that when you ( or maybe its just me, I'll say when I instead :-) ) got into any kinda of even a slighty complicated layout, it would move things automatically around on me, or end up with a table or column 2 or three pixels off leaving a big gap down the center of my page, or insert piles of useless little empty columns and rows on me when I was moving things around. That really pissed me off.
Granted, that was Dreamweaver 4, maybe its improved... but for now, I'm faster by hand than by Dreamweaver, and its cleaner by hand as well.
I do think Dreamweaver is a great place to start learning HTML, because its reasonably good HTML that it produces and if you dont understand HTML yet, you can study what Dreamweaver has created and learn from it.
On another note, does Dreamweaver MX have support for actually parsing PHP documents, like if I put an include() statement in a PHP document and open in in Dreamweaver MX, will it actually include that file so taht I can see what it looks like the layout window of Dreamweaver?