Well I think there are two issues here:
1) Being able to use HTML and CSS affectively to achieve the look you want.
2) Making pages that are actually good in terms of look and navigation. The later brings in design skills and website usability.
HTML and CSS tutorials and books are in abundance but good design skills are another matter. Part of it is a natural artistic flare and part of it can be learnt. It is also good to look at website usability. It is all well and good having a nice looking site but if it isnt standard and it isnt very navagatable then it isnt a good site. It also gives you ideas of what make good looking sites.
Jacob Nielsen is the god of website (and in general) usability.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/073571102X/ref=sr_aps_books_1_3/026-9320929-9828421 - A book reviewing the usability of 50 of the top websites
http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/156205810X/ref=sr_aps_books_1_1/026-9320929-9828421 - A book on general website usability