Just negate an isset() with the "!" operator:
if(!isset($_COOKIE['fubar'])) {
// do something if cookie is not set
}
Or if you prefer, you might find it more "readable" to do:
if(isset($_COOKIE['fubar']) == false) {
// do something if cookie is not set
}
Or, under the theory that there is always more than one way to do it:
if(empty($_COOKIE['fubar'])) {
// do something if cookie is not set or if it has a value of 0, '', or FALSE
}