If you know a bit of javascript you could do this:
create a link on your first page that the user must click.
Before the link is clicked, have javascript add something to the query string, like
?js=true
or some such thing.
then, if the js variable gets returned to the php parser, you'll know that they have javascript turned on.
I don't think that php can initally tell if the user has javascript turned on. You'd have to get some sort of feedback from the client for that, in the manner I've described. Or I could be wrong about that, and I'd like to hear about it.
matt.